Cognac and the Charentes region offer a distinctly unhurried slice of France – and you can get there from Bordeaux in under two hours. The town that gave its name to the iconic spirit is more than just barrels and brandy – it’s a place of striking architecture and a deep-rooted sense of craft. Beyond its streets, the wider region unfolds with lush vines, scenic Atlantic beaches, oyster farms, and Romanesque churches. The golden light on the vineyards, the quiet charm of riverside towns, and the way time seems to stretch over long lunches and leisurely cellar tours – this is definitely a location to explore.
Cognac & the Charentes
Restaurant Christopher Coutanceau
Plage de la Concurrence, La Rochelle
La Rochelle’s top restaurant holds no less than three Michelin stars and a Green Michelin star, with a menu that’s an ode to the Atlantic. A chef-fisherman devoted to green cuisine, Coutanceau celebrates sustainable fishing and zero waste: from shellfish plated to emphasise its natural brine to desserts with oceanic echoes, such as lemon soufflé with fennel and rock samphire. The dining room opens to the bay, where light shifts with the tide and the salty breeze makes each bite taste even closer to the sea.
Insider tip: The scallop pithivier is served only in scallop season (October to mid-May), so time your visit well.
Le Sillage
4 ruelle de la Lanterne, Place Camille Memain, Saint-Pierre-d’Oléron, Île d’Oléron
This Oléron Island favourite wears its maritime spirit with pride. Le Sillage’s food is passionate and instinctive, and the kitchen transform’s the day’s catch and seasonal produce into plates that balance creativity and comforting tastes: broths that distil the essence of the sea into a single spoonful; flavours lifted by smoke or acidity; and a wine list that leans local but surprises with regional gems. Equally thoughtful, the intimate space is understated, warm, and lit by shifting light.
Insider tip: A recommended €34 lunch menu is offered Tuesday to Friday.
This brasserie blends industrial-chic interiors with a modern approach to cooking. The menu evolves with the seasons, and there’s a sense of playfulness to the plating, but never at the expense of substance. Portions are ample, flavours are bold, and the kitchen doesn’t shy away from richness where it’s warranted. The riverside location adds to L’Atelier des Quais’ charm, with tables available on the terrace and in the calm and airy interior, where diners find warmth in both the service and the sunset.
Insider tip: Ask us to book you a table on the terrace: a summer jewel, alive with
conversations, cocktails, and clinking glasses as the light fades over the river.
With its modern design of metal, concrete, and glass, this Michelin-starred spot fills its dining space with soft natural light, reflecting chef Guillaume Veyssière’s deep connection to nature. The menu is built around what the land provides in the moment. Veyssière respects his raw materials, showcasing depth and texture in the dishes – a poached fish might melt on your tongue and wild game is paired with sauces of remarkable intensity. Beyond the cuisine, it’s a sensory experience – evening light shifts, and the surrounding forest heightens the kitchen’s earthy aromas.
Insider tip: For a relaxed menu du jour, try sister restaurant Forêt de Fontbelle (pictured above), where you’ll find traditional dishes based on ingredients available on the day.
Stroll into Saintes, just a few kilometres from chef Jérôme Dallet’s hometown, to find the restaurant he created with partner Coralie in an 18th-century residence. Dallet transforms seasonal produce, foraged wild herbs, and local game, fish, and market finds into a series of set menus designed to evoke childhood memories and travel nostalgia.
Insider tip: Intrigued by the cheese on your plate? Ask about the local suppliers. From beekeepers to saffron farmers, Dallet prides himself on the quality sources of his ingredients.
La Quincaillerie brings new life to a former ironmonger’s store, where chef Guillaume Weil applies his agricultural background to crafting farm-to-table dining with an edge, aided by self-taught baker Jérôme Douay. Awarded the coveted title of Maître Restaurateur by the Prefect of Charente-Maritime, the culinary duo celebrates seasonal produce through dishes such as pâté en croûte and veal filet mignon with truffles.
Insider tip: Don’t miss the cave boutique downstairs, offering independently brewed beers and natural wines, which can be purchased by the bottle or paired with your food upstairs.
Housed in a former rum bar, Comptoir Saoufé is a laidback oyster bar run by Marie-Pierre Massenavette and Cyril Brilleau. Taste the bounty of the surrounding coasts with wild oyster, shrimp, and whelk platters, alongside wine pairings from the nearby Charente and Bordeaux vineyards. With a glass of crisp white in hand and a table overlooking the Old Port streets, there’s no better place to embrace the city’s maritime atmosphere.
Insider tip: Plant-based? Ask for the samphire soup, a classic coastal dish in French cuisine made from a succulent plant that grows in salt marshes.
After a guided tour exploring the history and craftsmanship behind Meukow’s renowned cognacs, step into the former wine cellar, now transformed into a culinary workshop. In-house chef Sabine Lambert, alongside guest chef Daisuke Ogura from Kyoto, presents a fusion of French and Teppanyaki cuisine. Here, you’ll deepen your appreciation for the house’s cognacs through the marinades, sauces, and flambéed dishes on the menu.
Insider tip: Chai Meukow is open for lunch only, with occasional dinners reserved for Meukow cellar club members. Contact us to secure a coveted spot.
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